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Alpana Bawa, a Bengali term used to describe a floral, rice powder floor decoration depicting Hindu Goddesses, is an apt name for one of today's most creative and exotic young designers.

Born in Punjab, raised in Delhi, India is evident in Alpana's clothing. Her colours, patterns, and embroidery are sure signs that she is influenced by her homeland. "At present there seems to be a lot of interest in India," states Alpana. "You see it in more aspects of our lives, now that things like henna and bindi are so common."

Many in fashion would agree that this is the current trend, evident among performers such as Tori Amos, Janet Jackson and No Doubt. But, however trendy Indian culture may be at the moment, Alpana is quick to point out that her pieces are a continual body of artwork, which she hopes will endure beyond trends. "I don't design for just one season," states the 5 foot 4 inch Alpana wearing one of her Spring 96 dresses, from a collection inspired by geometric shapes.

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Alpana began her career as a teenager, designing children's and women's wear in India, before embarking on formal training and eventually a design career in the US six years ago. Her decision to take on the design world was an innate one as she had very little western influence growing up in India. "I didn't know the names of any designers growing up. My exposure to fashion came in the form of fashion I saw in Indian movies and pop culture, which were influenced by the West, giving me sort of a second hand exposure."
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Alpana's lack of Western influence is apparent in her unique East meets West fashion portfolio. She mixes traditional elements such as thick-soled, English style shoes with Indian spice colors and geometric shapes to create a sometimes funky but bold fashion statement. "For me design has to be comfortable and practical," states Alpana.

Not only are her designs practical, they are also well tailored to fit the needs of her customers whom she describes as a reflection of herself. "My customer tends to be a woman who is not afraid of getting attention, who is not shy about revealing her body," advises Alpana. "Breasts, she laughingly states, I always end up fitting the garment around the breasts. I like for breasts to be prominent. That's my fetish."

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This "fetish" is very evident in the Fall 97 Collection. The dresses are long with a breast-tapered and body conscious silhouette, utilizing wool, silk, and brocade fabrics. In addition, she uses many colours in an abstract pattern theme. "The idea behind this collection was to use more than one shape in one dress," she states.
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Take a poll of high fashion designers and you will find that they get inspiration from some pretty unorthodox sources. Alpana is not the exception. For Spring 1998, she is planning to design a collection inspired by the scaled wall of a restaurant that she visited. The theme - mermaids. The concept will be fashions based on the mythology of mermaids and their legendary sexual appeal to sailors; a woman using her sexual power to lure a man to his death. Definitely a collection to watch for.



Menswear is a new addition to Alpana's line. She explains that the line is more about creating beautiful pieces that a man can wear season after season. To date she has created a basic pant, as well as beautifully coloured and patterned leisure and tee shirts of cotton, linen, and linen gauze fabrics.


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Unlike some other American designers, Alpana doesn't stick to simple colour themes, such as a collection based strictly on primary colours or pastels. "I believe that all colours work together," says Alpana. "I am always testing this. It 's a part of the process, and part of the fun too, of putting together each collection." She says further, that she is inspired by many things she comes across in everyday life from architecture to elements of nature. "How I feel is the integral part of every collection that I do. It's about what turns me on about women."

I for one plan to keep an eye out for what turns this exciting new designer on.b a w a

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 [ C R E D I T S ]  photographer: katrina trninich  model:sally prisco 

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